The installation of Stalheim's laminate flooring is very simple. Even a home handyman, armed with the installation guidelines, can get a pretty good job done. And we also provide the required flooring accessories and installation tools to make life easier for our partners. This is in line with our policy of providing 'Total Solution' to our partners. With only few steps, takes just a few hours, you can create a lasting impression for your home!

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Installation Instructions

Important Information : Please read this before installation.

  • The floor panels should be transported in a lying down position. Floor panels should be stored in this position in their unopened packages in a dry storage location.
  • Allow the floor panels to acclimatize (in its unopened packaging) with its surrounding for 48 hours prior to installation.
  • Inspect the floor panels before laying. Complaints on materials that have been used will not be entertained. Unused panels from opened packages should be re-sealed in their original packing with adhesive tape.
  • The floor panels should be laid as a floating floor system and should not be fixed, in any way, to the sub-floor or to any vertical structure. Ensure that proper gaps of at least 10mm (3/8 inches) from the walls and any vertical structures are maintained during installation. These gaps are to be concealed with suitable skirting or expansion profiles after installation.
  • Suitable expansion profiles should be used at door threshold and if the length and width of the floor exceeds 12m and 7m respectively.
  • It is recommended that you use felt pads on furniture legs to prevent unintentional scratching on the floor.


Among the tools that you will need.
 The sub-floor surface should be dry (max 60% RH, at 18 deg C), reasonably flat, even (max 3mm/m) and clean before the installation is carried out. For a better visual effect, the panels should be laid in a way that in-coming light falls along the length of the planks OR simply install them along the direction of the length of the room.

First, the polythene sheets, which act as a moisture barrier, should be laid --- with 40mm (1.58 inches) extra as skirting around the wall. Joining of the sheets should have an overlapping of at least 200mm (7.87 inches), fastened with adhesive tape. A suitable underlay should be laid on top of the polythene sheet, fastened with adhesive tape.
It is advised that you begin from the left-hand corner, with the tongue of the board facing the wall. Always ensure that you allow an expansion gap of at least 10mm (3/8 inches) between the panels and the wall (or any vertical structures) by using wooden spacers or cut-outs from some leftover panels. If the wall is not straight, trim the panels according to the contour of the wall. To put the second panel into place, join the width side of the second panel with the width side of the first panel, push them together firmly and fasten the joint by pushing the panel down flat onto the sub-floor. If the joining is not tight, use a hammer and a suitable tapping block and tap gently at the other end of the second panel, if necessary. Make sure the alignment of planks is straight.

Repeat this procedure and complete the first row. At the end of the first row, mark and cut the last panel to obtain the suitable size/shape to fit the remaining space. Cut the panel with the décor side facing up if using a fine-toothed handsaw, and with the décor facing downwards if using a jigsaw. This last piece can be fitted with the use of a suitable tensioning tool or heel iron.

To start the second row, use the leftover piece of the last panel from the first row. This should be longer than 300mm (11.81 inches) for a better effect. If not, saw half of a new panel to start the second row. Ensure that the end joints are spaced at least 300mm apart in consecutive rows.
 To install the first panel of the second row, have it slightly tilted with its tongue inserted into the groove of the panel in the first row, and then press it down flat firmly so that the tongue and groove will interlock. The joint should be locked tight. If not, dismantle the panel and repeat the process and simply tap the panels tight with a heel iron(or a suitable tapping block) and a hammer. Start tapping from one end to the other, along the length side. Position the width of the subsequent panel close to the exposed width of the first panel, with its tongue on the length side inserted into the groove of the panel of first row. Standing on the panels of the first row, pull this panel inwards and then push it firmly downwards so that the tongue interlocks with groove of the panel in the first row.

The following is an alternative method to Steps 10 & 11. Position a new panel into the groove of the panels in the first row so that they almost interlock. Then, using a wooden hammering block, fit the new panel into place by knocking on a few positions along the length, while pushing the panel down firm(as shown in the diagram).
 Then use a hammer and tapping block and tap gently at the other end of the panel to tighten the width side. Follow the laying instructions explained earlier, and complete the second row. Subsequent panels / consecutive rows can be installed by repeating these steps. Completing the last row: Align the panel for the last row exactly on top of the panels of the second last row. Use another panel on top, push it against the wood spacers along the wall, and trace the edges as shown in the illustration, and then cut along the tracing. The panels for the last rows can be installed with the help of a suitable tensioning tool or a heel iron.

Finally, remove all wooden spacers along the walls. Fix the skirting / baseboard to the wall with (i) nails or with (ii) suitable fastening channels, if available. Please remember that the skirting profiles should only be fixed to the walls and are not to be fastened to the laminate floor panels in any way.

Additional points to note:

  • Sub-floors:
    This laminate flooring can be installed on the following sub-floors:
    Wood/timber, tiles and ceramics, marble/stone floors, linoleum/PVC and other solid/hard floor types. It is strongly advised that existing carpeting be removed before installing laminate flooring.

  • Floor heating:
    This laminate floor can be laid over hot-water under floor heating system. However, it is possible that slight gaps might develop between the floor panels when the heating is active, or due to the atmospheric conditions and this does not constitute grounds for complaints.

  • Clearance for door opening:
    Always check the thickness of the floor panels with the underlay beneath to ensure that there is enough clearance for doors to open. If not, necessary modifications should be carried out to ensure that doors open easily after the flooring is installed.

  • Cleaning:
    Do not pour water directly onto the floor during cleaning. The surface of laminate flooring is designed for easy maintenance, and cleaning can simply be done with a slightly damp mop or vacuuming. Laminate floor does not stain easily, and almost all stains can be removed with suitable household cleaning agents.
    It is advisable to use a doormat at main entrances to protect the floor and to keep it clean.

  • Installation diagrams provided above:
    Please note that these diagrams are meant as reference only. Floorboards, tools and all other items are not drawn according to actual scale.

  • Gaps
    As wood is a living material (inherent hygroscopic properties), gaps can appear on joints between floorboards due to seasonal variation, underfloor heating (electrical system not recommended) or exposure to excessive water.